It is Thanksgiving day and there is a light covering of snow on the ground, time to stoke the fireplace and wood stove.

Last year, about this time, I was in full panic mode! We had moved back to the farm just a few short months earlier and had a lot going on, getting into our new routines and just trying to fit into our new “homesteader” lifestyle. One of those routines that had totally slipped my mind was cutting firewood. So, when my wife, Deanna, had said she wanted to start a fire one chilly evening, I had a complete Homer Simpson moment …… D’oh! …..

Now I was in complete scramble mode. I couldn’t just go out back and chop down a few trees, the wood wouldn’t be seasoned (dried) properly, and I was NOT about to buy firewood when I live on a farm with access to tons of firewood. Then, my father had mentioned that there were slabs left over from when the portable saw mill was here a couple of years ago. Whew, I was safe! These slabs are the first cut that the mill makes on a log, which is usually discarded, and they have been drying for a couple of years. So, I headed off to the old mill site with the chainsaw and a can of fuel, a few hours later I was stacking a truckload of firewood on the porch and feeling pretty good about myself.

Chainsawbar & chain oilFuel container

That didn’t last long. Did I forget to mention that Deanna is from Florida and loves the heat from the wood stove. It was about a month later that I was back at the old mill site, digging through the snow, to scrape up the last of the slabs. I also found a few logs that weren’t cut into lumber, so I cut them into firewood as well. This time, I think I hauled 2 truckloads, and again I was feeling pretty good.

About the middle of January or February we were out of wood AGAIN! I was so frustrated with the whole ordeal I broke down and bought a cord of wood from a neighbor for $225!

That was a hard lesson for me to learn. As soon as the snow was gone and the ground was no longer frozen, I started cutting, splitting, and stacking firewood for this season. My son and I have worked hard all year to ensure that history does not repeat itself, I believe we have 8-10 cords of wood stacked neatly near the house. We have also been diligently saving the scraps from the wood shop to use as kindling.

Scraps from the wood shop for kindling wood

We do not heat our home with wood, however we have 2 open fireplaces and 1 wood burning stove, so we could do a pretty good job at heating the house if we needed to do so. I have considered an outdoor wood burning furnace/boiler, but having to go outside to stoke the fire is my biggest complaint. One of our neighbors has an indoor wood burning furnace, but I really don’t know much about them.

So, how do we process firewood? This year, we cleaned up an old pasture that had been reverting back to forest. It had quite a few cherry and ash trees that we used for firewood. Once the tree has been felled we limb the tree, cutting all branches from the main trunk. Then we start at the base and cut logs 16-20 inches in length, then we start at the base of each branch and do the same. We cut anything that is 3-4 inches in diameter into firewood.

Trees being bulldozed during pasture reclamation, to be used as firewood
Limbed trees cut into firewood

When all the trees have been cut in this fashion we haul the logs to one location with the bucket on the tractor and dump them in a huge pile, this is our working pile. Now it’s time to split the firewood.

Hauling unsplit firewood
Hauling firewood to a working pile


From the working pile we split the large logs into manageable size, I like to split everything that is 5 inches in diameter and larger. Some logs that are larger I’ll save for use in the open fireplace, but for the most part I like using smaller logs in the wood burner. Once a log is split, and anything from the working pile smaller than 5 inches in diameter, it is stacked in rows 4 feet high two rows deep onto pallets or runners to keep the wood off of the ground. The rows are then covered with tarps or metal sheeting to keep the rain and snow off the stack. The cover should not extend far down the sides of your stack, you want the air to be able to circulate around the logs to dry them out. A fresh cut stack of firewood should be allowed to dry, or season, for about a year.

Lower half of the firewood stacked near the house (4-5 cords)

At the beginning of each winter my son, Sawyer, hauls wood from the seasoned stacks near the house and loads the porch and two indoor bins with firewood. As the inside bins are burned, he refills them from the porch and refills the porch from the seasoned stack near the house. Next spring we will replenish the seasoned stack near the house from seasoned stacks around the farm.

Stacking firewood on the porch for winter

The first batch of firewood we processed this year was mostly cheery and I split most of it by hand with a splitting maul and a double bit ax. It was then loaded into the bed of a pick-up truck, hauled, and unloaded (not stacked) into a working pile near the house. Some of the logs were split again and there were a few oak trees that I used a hydraulic log splitter on. All the logs were then stacked as described above.

Splitting maulDouble bit axHydraulic log splitter

In the pictures above, you see we bulldozed trees over, collecting firewood was a by product of the larger pasture reclamation project. Typically we are in the woods felling trees with a chainsaw, limbing & cutting into logs, hauling the firewood with the tractor to a working pile nearby, then splitting & stacking the firewood so it can season. This whole process could be done with a couple of different axes, a hand saw, and a splitting maul. It just depends on how much sweat equity you are willing to invest.

However the job gets done, its worth every ounce of effort, for the comfort of sitting next to the fireplace or wood stove, sipping a hot cup of cocoa on a cold winter night.


Enjoying the fruits of my labor in front of the fireplace
Relaxing by the wood burning stove

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Hunting – a skill worth learning

Hunting is one of the most basic skills of humanity and one that I feel everyone should learn. From the dawn of time, man has had to hunt in order to survive.

In todays fast-paced lifestyles of drive-thru burgers and supermarket prepackaged meals, hunting is also one of the skills that is least used by many today.

I’m a country boy and grew up hunting from an early age, but for many years I was trapped in the rat race and could never find the time to hone my hunting skills. Last year I was able to leave the rat race behind and have once again taken up hunting. I was a basic hunter many years ago, rifle hunting deer and small game hunting with a shotgun. There are many types of hunting that I hope to learn and participate in this coming year.

Currently, in Southwestern Pennsylvania, archery and small game are in season. Archery is one of those skills I plan on picking up and learning as much as possible. Small game hunting, on the other hand, I had been doing since I was old enough to hunt. However, when I was growing up we used shotguns, this year, my son and I started using .22 rifles to hunt squirrel. Using a .22 is definitely more challenging, especially when you consider we decided to use open sites, not a scope.

Rifle season for deer is right around the corner and we will be sighting in our guns in the next few weeks. This will be the second year that my son, Sawyer, has gone deer hunting and we are both getting quite anxious and excited.

Check out Save Our Skills YouTube channel, we recently posted a video on Skinning a deer. A neighbor of ours, R.T., harvested an 8 point buck last week and we were fortunate enough to video the processing of it. You will notice in the video that the deer was not field dressed. We skinned the deer first, then dressed it, and finally butchered it. That process is a little out of sync, we would normally field dress the deer prior to skinning.


If your going to hunt deer or small game, your going to need a few “tools”.

The first of course being a rifle and/or a shotgun. For deer I use a bolt action Tikka 25-06 and my son, Sawyer, uses a bolt action Ruger 30-06. For squirrel I use a single shot Rossi combo rifle with a 12 gauge or a .22 long rifle barrel and Sawyer uses a Henry model H001T lever action .22LR. These tools will help you get your prey, but there are a few more items you’ll need to get it on the table.

Henry .22LR Model H001T
Rossi Combo Rifle .22LR/12ga

Next you’ll need a good knife to gut, skin, and butcher your game. For deer, a good knife would be a Mora knife from Sweden. Mora of Sweden was formed in 2005 through the merger of Frosts Knivfabrik and KJ Eriksson. A MoraknivĀ® (Mora knife) is always a knife from Mora of Sweden.The company is still family-owned and develops and manufactures knives which are delivered to all parts of the world. All Mora knives are made in Sweden. When it comes to squirrel, all that is needed for the job is a Gerber EAB (exchange a blade). Make sure you check the Save Our Skills YouTube site for an upcoming video on processing squirrel.

Mora Knife, Gerber EAB

Gerber EAB (Exchange a blade)
Gerber EAB



Here are a few other items that may be useful in your hunting quest.

Deer Stand – Set up and wait at the perfect location

Bleat call – Lure that big one in close to the stand

Butt Out tool – An awesome addition to your field dressing kit.

Rubber gloves – Another great item for your field dressing kit

Deer drag – To haul that trophy buck out of the woods

Gambrel – To hang and process your deer


Happy hunting,


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Building & Mending Fences (pt. 1)


One of the many activities around the farm during the fall season is building and mending fence. We have several styles of fence around the farm, woven wire, high tensile single strand, and board panels to name a few.

Board panel fence


Woven wire fence


High tensile single strand fence

If you have fences or plan on building fences on your property it is well worth the effort to cut your own posts and install the fence yourself. Contracting a fence builder can be expensive!

This past year we built traditional fence and had some fence installed professionally. The contracted fence wound up costing $5.00/ft. or more and when we do the work ourselves it costs $0.65/ft. That is a huge cash savings! However, it is a large investment in sweat equity!

Most of the fence posts around the farm are locust or hedge (osage orange) that we have cut and split from the property. If you’re going to be building fence around your property you will need a few tools. The first tool you’ll need is a chainsaw to fell and limb the trees that will be cut into 7′ fence posts.


16″ chainsaw


Next you’ll need a sledge & wedges and an ax for splitting the larger posts into smaller posts. You will want to save some of the larger posts for use as corner and gate posts.

Splitting fence post


Double bit ax

Sledge hammerWood splitting wedgeAx


Once the post are split it’s time to start building fence. We set the first corner post and run a string near the ground, 550 cord works great for this, to the next corner post. If the fence is longer than your string just set a post at the end of your string. Along the string we mark a spot on the ground every 10′ where we will dig each post hole.

Setting fence post row. The post in the foreground is a corner post, notice the string tied to its base. It runs to the next corner post and we marked every 10′ on the ground for each post hole


This is the same fence row as above, looking from the other direction

550 cord


Digging post holes manually can be quite a chore. If you have a tractor with an auger the job is much easier. If you don’t own a tractor you could use a 2 man power auger which could be rented at most equipment rental stores and possibly Home Depot or Lowes. If you have no powered auger option then your left digging post holes with a shovel, digging bar, and a post hole digger. When I was growing up on the farm, my brother and I built many miles of fence this way. Even if you use an auger, it’s still a good idea to have these tools on hand to clean out and level the bottom of the post holes.


old style post hole digger


tamping & digging bar


Dad & Jeff drilling a post hole


ShovelPost hole diggerTamping/digging bar2 person powered auger


Now you can start setting the posts you have worked so hard to cut and split. Move the string to the top of the end posts and align the top of the post you are setting with the string. When you have the post aligned start filling the hole with a shovel and tamping evenly around the post as you go. Continue in this fashion until all posts are set.

Neighbor, Jeff, getting ready to set & tamp a post


Hand set fence posts prior to stapling on wire


You are well on your way to finishing the fence!

In future posts I will be discussing corner braces, gates, water crossings, stretching & stapling wire, and much more on building and repairing fences. Also, tune into the Save Our Skills YouTube channel for future videos on this subject.


Be sure to check out our support video on splitting fence posts on YouTube – Splitting Fence Post


Some links are affiliate links. At no additional cost to you, I may get a small commission if you make a purchase from these links. Thanks for your support in this way.